Australia Surf-mania

Surfing is to Australian like an old fashion cup of tea or, the modern version, a pint to Brits, so we couldn’t have come so far and not gives it a go.
It’s hard to resist it since everywhere we went on the East Coast we came across a nation of surfers competing for their “right of way” in the blue sea. I am not only talking about the hot athletic bodies running on the beach with the surfboard under the arm, sorry I need to stay focus.. right where I was.. even girls, elders, little kids are all out there catching the waves. I guess it’s in their blood, a hereditary gene they all born with, and no wonder all coastal towns have its own surf club and all Australian live within 5miles of the coast.
We spent hours ‘n hours admiring the Ozzies mastering so naturally this art, enough to believe we had absorbed the techniques: paddle out to the ocean, wait for the right wave, catch it, stand up and just ride it, so simple, right?
I reminded myself what a crap I was at any gym’s lesson in the high school and, a part of me, was sure I was going to make full of myself but, with an encouragement from Chris, which made me believed it would have being as easy as on my first snowboard-ride down the Val Senales Glacial (only after, I recalled I ended up going off track, landing on a rock, having a horrible, painful green bruise on my bum for weeks, before somehow I miraculously reached the end of the slope), there I was, squeezing into a wetsuit, staring at the ocean to spot the best angle to approach it. I guess I looked such a professional surfer that a dude approached me asking for some wax. What for? Looking at him suspiciously “sorry mate”, before I realized the board need to be spread with it to increase the grip, I would had needed lots of it!

Me, my board and my foolish confidence

No more chatting, time to get serious. All surfers were out there around the same spot, the waves looked terrific, perfect we thought and here we go.
I started paddle to reach the other surfers but there was a slightly issue: no matter how harder I tried, I couldn’t get any further than a certain point. Already exhausted, I decided there it would have been the right spot I would have waited for my wave. After some failed attempts, here I was: riding a wave.. well, kind of, body surfing, I was having enough troubles to hold steady on the fast-running board that stand up was not an option. Yet, it was so excited, so fast; it was seconds of pure exhilarating fun before it quickly turned to frightening anxiety when I saw I was washed furiously ashore against some massive rocks, sh’t! I had no idea how to stop that thing. Before I knew it, my board stranded on the sand and I was tossed around in between some rocks like some socks in the spin-drier. Phew! I didn’t know how but I was all in one piece.
I was still convinced I could do it so, after I calmed down and with Chris still in the water, I gave it another go. This time I placed myself as far away from a possible trajectory against those rocks and after minutes of wait there I was, same story and same ending. That was the moment I knew this sport was not for me or at least next time I would have need some professional help, a lesson wouldn’t have heart me.

Watching it was an entertaining pastime, but do it was a complete different story altogether, have fun!
Tips:

·best surfing spots (not that I am an expert but cause I saw lots of surfers there) are probably around Sydney’s beaches, from Bondi to Manly beach, Byron Bay and Surfer Paradise;
·you don’t have to splash much of your budget to get some qualified tips, one-hour surf’s lesson is around 60 bucks or you could hire a board for $20 for all-day-long plus a tenner for the wetsuit

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